Day 2- From Vairo to Sao Piedro de Rates, approx 11 miles, including official Camino detours and our own personal ones
Let’s get the Lows out of the way:
My toenails hurt and are maybe even turning purple… yeesh. Just the ones directly next to my big toes. They only bothered me once during training, on the day we walked the farthest. I chalked it up to the type of walking we did that day, more like the AT than the Camino. I did not think it would be an issue. It may well be.
When I was fitted for shoes as I began training I was shocked, and slightly horrified, that I measured a size 10. Not a particularly Bo Derek moment for me. I’ve worn a size 8 since I was in high school. How had I never noticed that I was wearing 2 sizes too small?! Someone told me that our feet and our noses never stop growing. I gotta say I’m not excited about that.
Another low: The 1st casualty to the Camino: I lost the bag I used to keep wet clothes in when washing them, the bag I used to move my wet clothes from the bathroom to the place outside to hang to dry. It was my insurance policy against leaving a trail of unmentionables around the alburgue. This may be the first of many “casualties”. At this rate, one loss per day, my bag may be considerably lighter at the end of the Camino.
Another low: Coming out this morning to find my clothes still wet. Yikes. I will not be washing everything daily.
Highs: The wooded path to start the day was balm for the spirit and the body after the cobblestones and cars of the first day. I still flinch, gasp, and/or squeal as the cars go by. With the backpack on, and being so weary, it’s easy to tip and tilt when walking (is it just me?). At any rate this is a luxury I cannot afford as the cars go by. It’s literally a game of inches.
I have a bandana that hangs from my backpack (symbolic of one of the main “asks” I have of God for my Camino—more about that later…). Anyway my companions say the bandana serves a functional purpose—something for them to grab ahold of and pull me out of the path of cars, trucks and combines. We are in a very agricultural area. The size of the vehicles are inversely proportional to the size of the road.
Somehow I didn’t imagine the cars and traffic. My Camino was going to incredibly peaceful. As many posts, videos, books and blogposts, et al(!) that we read and watched and listened to, I did not imagine this as part of my Camino. Crazy. We seriously over researched this trip. To the point of being tired of talking about it. Did no one mention it or had I blocked it, knowing it would be something that would make me not consider doing it? Oh right, I was on the Highs…
Another high: the Sao Piedro de Rates church. The doors were open. Praise. It’s an 11th century church that is an active local parish today!! The tabernacle candle was lit, signifying the presence of The Eucharist. Just what I needed to restore my faith, to give me hope. The Body of Christ is alive and well. As though I could ever doubt such a thing.
My husband and I kneeled in the front row and read your names quietly in the empty church. What a privilege. Thank you for asking. It was the most peace I have felt so far.
More highs: breakfast provided by Maria the alburgue volunteer—the workers are not paid on this earth, though I’m sure there’s a special room for them in heaven. Can you imagine cleaning the alburgue bathrooms (more on THAT later…)
More highs: second breakfast and my first European cappuccino (ahhhhh), with bread and cream cheese, lunch at Macedos with Fernando (are you noticing a food theme?). We’re not sure whether everything actually tastes so much better here or we’re just more grateful for the sustenance.
It was over lunch that we had the best conversation we’ve had so far, talk about what’s Real, over Local beer named Super Boch that is marketed everywhere here, with branded tables, chairs, umbrellas and signs. Well done Super Boch marketing people!
Last high: Thanks for walking with me!
