Hej y'all,

I'm sitting with Nelson at my favorite cafe of the month: Fågelsången ("The Bird Song") while outside the trees churn in an autumn breeze. The sun peaks through the clouds and for a moment it rains - all the droplets tumbling in the sunlight. "Det regnar," I hear some voices at the cafe murmur. I can hear the quiet clatter of dishes and cutlery. It smells deliciously of coffee and I've just finished a slice of äppelkaka med vaniljsås - a beautiful crumbly oat and apple cake with vanilla whipped cream. 

Last night we went indoor rock climbing with our downstairs neighbors Maja and Rory at Klättercentret. I borrowed my neighbor Karin's bike. It seems like everyone in Sweden is taller than me and I felt delightfully silly peddling with my toes slightly pointed like a ballerina. We travelled past some university research buildings and along a long trail south of the city by industrial chimneys and big open pastures to the big commercial center on the outskirts of Uppsala. Walking into the climbing gym felt like walking into any climbing gym in California. Smoothie shop. Bros in tanks slinging bro talk about "beta", "crimps", and "projects." Chalk. Laughter. Tattoos, braids, and undercuts. Expensive Patagonia t-shirts. An old dude with a ponytail and a rainbow chalk bag out-climbing people half his age. If I ignored the world beyond the walls of the gym I was back home. I tried to take it slow but still managed to completely and utterly exhaust myself: 1) I'm not in great shape at the moment and 2) it was just so much dang fun I couldn't stop. I slept like a log. Like a hog in a log in a bog. 

I think these two experiences sum up where I'm at right now in Sweden. I've found a sort of approximation of a groove. This summer was relentlessly difficult. It rained, our finances dwindled, and we both battled the mental effects of change, grief, and isolation. The homesickness has been really intense. Yet somehow, time moved forwards, the season changed, and the truth of "this too shall pass" proved solid wisdom. Autumn came to Uppsala with unseasonal warmth and sunshine. I read recently in the news that shops can't sell their stock of coats. Everyone keeps buying t-shirts. 

I've been able to return to work with my "official" start October 2. I love my walking commute where I listen to podcasts or music and look at the colourful leaves. I especially like the misty mornings where the fog is thick and the cool air wakes me up like a second cup of coffee. It feels good to draw, to see people, and to have a routine. 

Here are a few pics:

A leaf found along Upplandsleden, August 30 ^

Hiking along Upplandsleden, Sep 3 ^

Dock at Fjällnora, August 31 ^

Nelson asks: Can a sheep be a shepherd of sheep? Hågadalen Sep 28 ^

Average cups of coffee per day: 2
Average hours slept: 9
Average daily distance walked : 8k / 5 mi + running + climbing + cycling
Culture shocks: The online banking system is complicated in a way I can't even begin to describe. I'll spare you.
Favorite place this week: Fågelsången and Klättercentret   
New Swedish phrase unlocked: "Du har en räv bakom örat." - "You have a fox behind your ear." Something you can say when someone is being CHEEKY.
Next quests: Set up mobile Bank-ID, download the Swish App, and buy a bike with winter tires.
Things I'm enjoying lately: [books] Worlds of Exile and Illusion by Ursala K. Le Guin (1996). [movies] Turning Red directed by Domee Shi (2022). [games] Baldur's Gate 3 by Larian Studios (2023). 

No questions were asked. Sweden keeps it's secrets.
 

Till next time cuties.

Katie