If you've traveled much, you're likely aware of how good a summer visit to the mountains can be. Whether it is the Sierra Nevada, the Cascades, the Rockies, or my beloved Adirondacks, sunny skies, mild temperatures, wildflowers, and the complete lack of snowboarders can make for a great destination vacation.
Or destination wedding. That is what brought us to Breckenridge, Colorado in the Rockies in August of 2024. But having now visited for the first time in decades, you shouldn't wait for a wedding: Breckenridge in summer is Killer. It is a walkable, scenic, and hospitable place, with outdoor activities galore for those so inclined.
What is especially charming about Breckenridge is its authenticity: Most of the buildings along Main Street and the blocks around it date to the 1800s. Yet it is a pure tourist town, as most of the residences are too expensive for local workers. But at least it's not the Faux European village look of Vail, for example. It is more like Telluride, Park City, or Aspen in that regard: the town was a real place decades before the advent of skiing and all that came with it. In those other towns and here, that's a good thing.
Dings? While it's tantalizingly close, and you get here on an Interstate highway, access to Breckenridge from its gateway of Denver can be a clusterfuck. And the town's parking policy (see below) is obnoxious.
But it remains a wonderful summer destination and one easy to recommend.
LAY OF THE LAND
Breck (as the cool kids call it) is near the Continental Divide, approximately 90 miles from Denver, and about two hours from its airport. We rented a car, which worked, but it's a crap shoot as I-70, the only route to and from Breck from Denver, can be nightmarish - in any season and in any weather. You've been warned: Instead of a 2 hour drive, it could take 5.
Your other option is one of the shuttles that ply the route between DEN and Breck. There's Summit Express, Epic Mountain Express, Peak 1, and Pegasus. I did not use one, so I offer no ratings.
But the last one is the least expensive and was recommended to me by a local. Be aware, however, that you have to get to Union Station in downtown Denver to catch it (doable, as there's a train from the airport to Union Station), and then take a bus from Frisco. A hassle, yes, but at $13 (vs. about $100), it's a value.
This all matters because if I were to do it again, I would not have rented a car. If you are staying within the area on this map, in decent shape, and not planning excursions out of town, you won't need one.
LODGING
One reason this is a Micro Travel Guide is that it is not comprehensive, and that is most true in this category. But being a major ski resort, there are sketchy youth hostels with bunk beds, condos of every variety known to man, and Ralph Lauren fever dream mansions on the mountain, complete with a chef.
We chose the upscale and spendy Gravity Haus Hotel at $350/night. It is directly at a major lift base, so in winter, it is the definition of ski-in/ski-out. In summer, it is as good a location as any from which to operate. It was also modern, clean, and our room was fine. But I still deem it only Serviceable, for three reasons:
The egregious and daily $40 parking fee, from which there's no real escape: Breckenridge prohibits street parking and in public lots between 2 AM and 6 AM. I understand this during ski season, but mid-week in summer? When every parking garage is empty?
Too cool for its own good, as exemplified by any information about our room or the hotel itself is only available via a QR code. First menus, now this? Sometimes, printing things on recycled paper is better for everyone, not just cranky old men who write Travel Guides.
This has become a litmus test for me, and it is the availability of free, self-service coffee in the lobby or somewhere, beginning no later than 6 AM. Gravity Haus failed the test miserably, as instead, one must rely on the oh-so-cool Unraveled coffee shop that's in the lobby. So instead of grabbing and going, you get to wait in line - for that classic stoned/lackadaisical Gen Z service we've all come to know and loathe.
First-world problems? Of course. But the Gravity Haus defines and prices itself as a luxury hotel. And if luxury at a hotel is defined as not wanting for anything, why was I wanting an iron and ironing board in my room without having to ask for it, and why can't they take the $40 parking fee and put out some coffee for guests at 6 AM?
Why the detail on only a Serviceable place? Because I bet others would say it's Killer or even Diamond Certified. And I can understand why - at least if they don't drink coffee or drive a car to the hotel.
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
There is everything available, and that's not a stretch. This is an outdoors person's heaven and while I did relatively little, options run the gamut from fly fishing and golf to repelling and parasailing. If it can be done outside, somebody's likely offering it to tourists.
A lot of activities are available at the end of a free and scenic gondola ride, which takes you from a base area in town to approximately halfway up the mountain, to here, Breck's Epic Discovery Park. Just know that while the gondola is free, most of the activities up here decidedly are not. There's an alpine slide, mini golf (both visible in the photo), trampoline and bungee jump parks, and climbing walls. There is also a chairlift ride to the top available, ideal for mountain bikers and hikers.
I did none of that. But I did ride the Diamond Certified Gold Runner Coaster. Here's the car in which you ride. And the ride itself. That is not me - I'd never own a pair of shoes like that - so no, it is not my photo. But it's important you see and understand it is indeed a roller coaster on a ski mountain.
But you're in complete control, and you can let it go as fast as you wish: The cars are never coming off the rails, and you're strapped tight to the car. I didn't do that but came close a few times before putting on the brakes. What I did do was never stop whooping wails of excitement as I careened (safely) down the mountain.
$45 for 90 seconds and worth it; the Coaster is as good a ride as I've personally experienced.
Some Pro Tips:
Do not make the mistake we made on our first visit and fail to do everything in advance online, including getting tickets AND signing the waivers required for certain things (like the Coaster).
There are packages available that combine different experiences.
Be aware that to ride the Coaster, you must hike up a fairly steep hill. But the 87-year-old with us had no problem with the hill (or the Coaster, for that matter).
And that's just the end of the gondola. There is of course a lot more available, but quite a bit of our time was spent . . .
EATING/DRINKING
It was a wedding and the general mood was celebratory. So my arm got twisted and I visited several restaurants and bars, solo, with Julie, and in groups. I will start with this: Whatever they're giving the bartenders, waitstaff, and other people who cater to tourists here is working. I received friendly and genuine hospitality everywhere I went. And while we didn't dine any place fancy (apart from a banger of a wedding reception Friday), the quality of the food across the board was excellent.
As always, I provide links when available for Textbook or better places.
Gourmet deli of a caliber I wasn't expecting in a ski town
Baguette sandwiches that would please even the French
MUSEUMS/GALLERIES/PERFORMANCE ART
There are several museums, galleries, etc. in Breck. I went to none.
SHOPPING
It's a high-end ski resort, FFS. If the mood strikes, you can pick up some new Helly Hansen gear after you shop for a new Panerai.
Me? As usual, not so much.
But I did make a liquor run for our room and found a very good liquor/grocery store in a convenient location. It's Breckenridge Market & Liquor, just off Main, between Jefferson and Adams.
THE TAKEAWAY
In terms of classic mountain towns, Park City is the easiest to get to. But Breckenridge's town is better, so in the summer, my pick is Breck.
But winter? Park City every time, because I-70 to the Rockies in Colorado has become indistinguishable from I-80 to the Sierra Nevada in California, which is about as bad a thing as I can say.
